THE GHOST OF SAINT MARY'S LINGERS ON

A fresco; which now has unfortunately been lost to the public eye. Was once on the south side of the Chancel of St Peter's Collegiate Church, representing 'The Lost Piece of Money' and it commemorated the building and the endowment of St Mary's Church thus - "Give God the glory for the will and the means granted to Theodosia Hinkes to found St Mary's Church, Wolverhampton, with Vicarage and Schools - A.D. 1842."

(STAFFORD STREET 9TH DEC 2009)

THE GHOSTS OF ST MARY'S LINGER ON AS YOU ENTER THE FAST LANE TODAY

For those intrepid car traveler's of today who use the Wolverhampton Ring Road, if on occasion you approach its busy junction with Stafford Street, and the lights are against you, as you sit and fidget, eyes on the lights, engine revving; well after today, relax, sit back and think on this.

Whether you know it or not you are about to cross this mediaeval area once known as the 'Four Ashes' and the Ghosts of St Mary's guard this entrance to the fast lane.

(MAP OF STAFFORD ST CIRCA 1950)

ALAS POOR STAFFORD STREET, I KNEW IT WELL

The 'Four Ashes' was a small quiet area of Stafford Street, and is to be seen on Isaac Taylors map of 1750. (It is noted on my later 1950's drawing as the area around the top of Charles Street).

Now as we enter the nineteenth century with the arrival of the Canals and Railways, coupled with the influx of immigrants from Ireland, the environment in this area of town changed for the worst.

We find St Mary's Church (consecrated October 15th 1842), has been built to provide a little haven of peace amidst the turmoil around Stafford Street, which by now, fronted the mainly Irish quarter of town with its maze of courts and alleys around 'Littles Lane' and the canal, known as the 'Notorious Carribee Islands'.

( THE FOUR ASHES PUB CIRCA 1950)

Now if we fast forward now to the 1950's we see a memorial to this historic spot in the form of a licensed house with the same title. The 'Four Ashes' was a William Butlers House, then in the capable hands of a widow; Francis Pearce. Here the pub is pictured at the top of Charles Street.

Across Stafford Street, directly opposite on the corner of Faulkland Crescent, was 'Attwoods Garage' (where Kwickfit is today). On the opposite corner of Charles Street to the pub stood 'Brodies' chemists, and Corkindales; a mens tailors.

(STAFFORD ST / CHARLES ST JUNCTION CIRCA EARLY 1950'S )

When this picture was taken, the Church of St Mary's (on the left) was already redundant.

The remodeling of this area between Faulkand Street and Littles Lane began in the latter part of the 1940's, with the closing of the Vicarage and Schools, and with the deconsecrating of the Church. The buildings themselves had a further 10 years of life, used as facilities for the Young Mens Christian Association.

Littles Lane (on the far left) was not a quiet backwater, as it's name suggests, it was a very busy carriageway which lead down to the Great Western Railway goods yard and Broad street canal basin, with many houses, pubs and works in the intersecting streets.

(A QUEUE FOR THE DANCE, OUTSIDE OF THE Y.M.C.A CIRCA 1956)

THIS IS 1956, THE Y.M.C.A. ON STAFFORD STREET 'MECCA' FOR THE NEW 'ROCK AND ROLL' TEENAGERS OF THE DAY

On the left, the towering block containing 'Copes Motorcycle Dealers', on the right across the road was 'E.L Bouts Garage', which would soon re-move to Merridale Lane. On the corner opposite 'Copes', was the former 'St Mary's School', now being used as the Y.M.C.A. canteen, which was very busy with local trade and staff from the buses terminating at the top of 'Stafford Street'.

The Church building itself was partially demolished around 1950, a portion of the fabric was kept and adopted to form the new headquarters for Wolverhampton Y.M.C.A.

Now re-structured it has taken on a new mantle, and re-named 'The Percy Thomas Hall' by its benefactor. For a few short years it would be a local dance hall, with its resident bandleader, Jack Andrews.

It wasn't always strictly ballroom at the Y.M., Jack wasn't adverse to a bit of the new craze of Rock and Roll.

(ST MARY'S VICARAGE CIRCA CIRCA 1950)

Next door, the vicarage was for awhile, a popular boys club, formerly the home of the 'Toc H'. All types of youthful activities were enjoyed there.

Apart from the film shows, there was snooker and table tennis facilities, on hand, and many crack players of both sports represented the Y.M. in the local leagues during the fifteen years following, before the buildings demise.

(THE VIEW INSIDE ST MARY'S 1950)

A pile of rubble is all that remains today on tuesday 17th October 1950, of this once famous Stafford Street landmark consecrated in 1842 made redundant in 1949.

What was it like in all its glory?

According to 'Hindes Red Book' of 1894 - 5, "the style of architecture was intended to be a revival of that prevailing during the 13th and 14th centuries. The church is cruciform, surmounted at the intersection by a tower and spire, the latter, which is of a shape common in Normandy and other parts of the continent, terminating with an encircled cross."

(STAFFORD ST JUNCTION JAN 1982)

This Christmas scene was taken, from the top floor of Wolverhampton's Faculty of Art Building, at the Stafford Street junction of the ring road in January 1982.

The bells of St Mary's had not been heard for over thirty years, and the drink had long run dry at the pub opposite when this treacherous carpet of snow brought to an end my minds journey of life around St Marys, but still the ghostly memories of the 'Four Ashes' linger on!

THE LOST CHURCHES OF WOLVERHAMPTON

A learned man once said "It is all too easy in the name of progress to destroy the best along with the worst, and lament afterwards."

(Did you play underneath the arches?)

This Church arch featured recently as a "Picture from the Past" in our local newspaper, the Express & Star. Apparently this Gothic arch and the remains of a church wall were; when pictured in 1963, lying derelict on a site designated for a new building project in Finchfield Road known as 'The Orchard'.

According to Canon John Brierley rector of Wolverhampton at that time arches such as these have been sold throughout the years as St Peter's Church has been renovated.

So this article got me thinking; I just wonder what small fragments of these historic treasures lie tucked away as garden walls and ornaments around our City today, brought about by those with a lack of foresight who decided to improve the old town in the last quarter of the 20th century.

(Saint Peter's Church Circa 1950's)

Thank God we still have our oldest church and in my opinion; the nicest in the county. St Peter's Collegiate Church which has been part of of Wolverhampton since 1425 and lies in the heart of our city. Built on the site of the original minster church and was later rebuilt by Lady Wulfruna.

Today this picturesque church, its gardens and fountain are a much loved part of our city and create a calming contrast to the hustle and bustle of the shops and businesses which surround it.


THE LOST CHURCHES OF WOLVERHAMPTON

Over the course of the next few weeks, I would like to give you a study of local Church buildings, and their environment that once brought character and life to our city centre.

Perhaps knowing the fate of these many Victorian Churches made redundant and lost in the 1950's and 60's, may serve to stimulate a more enlightened interest in the preservation of those that survive.

(The remains of Christ Church, Dunstall 1975)

Lights from around the Five Ways and Waterloo Road in particular, coupled with an October mist lend an air of mystery to this late-night picture taken from inside Christ Church, which was being demolished in 1975.

(Christ Church Circa 1950)

Christ Church, at the bottom of Waterloo Road was erected mainly through the exertions of the then rector of St Peter's, the Venerable Archdeacon Iles, and was formed in 1887 into a vicarage.

The extensive building of the Great Western Locomotive works had caused the necessity of a church to be needed here, at the five ways.

(Map showing the Five Ways & surrounding area Circa 1902)

Five ways at lower Stafford Road showing the site of 'Christ Church' made redundant in the 1960's. This road junction was the hub of the local community living close to their places of employment in this once heavy industrial zone.

The principle employer being the Great Western locomotive works that straddled the road at Dunstall Hill, others of course adjoining the Birmingham Canal were Wolverhampton Gas Company, and The Electic Construction Company built on a triangular site nestling beneath Oxley Bank, Stafford Road and Bushbury Lane.

The EEC produced heavy electrical machinery electric motors and generating equipment it closed in 1985. The Wolverhampton Science Park covers this site and and an area once used by the gasworks.

(The Five Ways, Circa 1919)

The view just after the first World War from five ways looking towards Dunstall. Dominating the skyline are the chimneys of the Great Western railway works on Dunstall Hill.

Brunel's old bridge is seen in the centre, this will be demolished in the 30's; as were many others in town to allow for the double decked trolleybus operation. This being a railway-workers enclave it's not surprising that the public house names in the area reflected this.

There was a 'Great Western Inn' on the corner of Moseley Street, a cul-de-sac, on the right in the picture. Then next door to the Pawnbrokers shop on the extreme left, was the 'Locomotive Inn'.

The 'Gold Flake' cigarette advert was on Gough's tobacconists on the corner of Dunstall Street, and even well established then and right up into the 1960's, just a couple of doors away from the Great Western, was 'Albino's', a local cycle dealer (Remember his quaint footpath petrol pumps?).

(Wolverhampton Mosque 2009)

The five ways today is practically unrecogniseable, the culture has changed the shops have gone, now there is only small industrial units. There are now just four ways; the North Road, one of the principal routes into the town centre is now a cul-de-sac, and tower blocks now supply accommodation for the occupants of the former lost victorian terraces that once dominated this area.

Today a Mosque stands on the site of the former Christ Church. Regarding this new house of worship; I believe all has not been lost, we still have a fine building, albeit with a different form of enlightenment.

The East came along in time to save all going West, so to speak.

THE ELEPHANT NEVER FORGETS

'Hello Billy, I found your e.mail address on your blog - which I stumbled across by accident. I moved from Wolverhampton more than thirty years ago but often look at the City websites to keep up-to-date.

For many years, I have been trying to find someone with knowledge of the Stafford Street area of Wolverhampton.

For some years I have been trying to find the history of a piece of ground in (Lower ?) Stafford Street, which was used as a football pitch/recreation ground.

It lay between Stafford Street and North Street and in the 1940s, I'm sure I can remember seeing air-raid shelters on it.

I should be so grateful if you can tell me anything about it. My father was born in that area in 1905 and when his father died in 1918 they were living I believe at N0.4 Boscobel Place.

Regards,

Eileen.'


Now there's a name to conjure up a little bit of Wolverhampton History. Many an old Wuffler with an historic appetite will gather this once small ancient court off Lower Stafford Street inherited its name from that famous house just 3 miles distant from Codsall.

The house built on the domain land of Whiteladies during the latter part of the reign of Queen Elizabeth, by John Giffard of Chillington. Its named derived from Italian, 'Bosco Bello' - Fair Wood. Now as you can see this picture its descriptive name would still have been appropriate when this map of 1875 was drawn up as most of this area still mainly consisted of gardens.

Regarding the "Rec". The ground in Question.

Yes Eileen I remember the piece of waste ground you mention quite well, it was situated between North Street and Stafford Street, bordered by Red Hill Street and Boscobel Place.

It did indeed have air-raid shelters built at the top at one time, and I remember Red Cross Street School close by also used it for sporting activities, eventually they built a clinic on the site it in the 1950's.

1932-33 Hindes Red Book describes it as such:

Known as Red Hill Street open space. This space is now open to children after school hours from 5.00pm till dusk each day except Sunday. Two sets of See-saws and Swings were erected during 1931.


For all the 'Old Wufflers' who have memories to share of this bustling triangle from the Gladstone North Street and the Elephant and Castle Stafford Street, down to the 'Five Ways', above is a map I have drawn-up to stimulate those dormant minds.


Summerhill Lane / Windmill Bank, now Lower Stafford Street, a further little stimulation.

Early maps show Wolverhampton had two windmills quite near to the town centre, this was the site of one of them on the east side of Lower Stafford Street, and right up to the mid 20th century the name Windmill was frequently used for parts of this area.

This is a pre-war photo of Lower Stafford Street, between Beaumont Street on the right and Bonemill Lane, on the left.

It shows the entrance to Stafford Street Congregational Church, with the Clinic and Assembly rooms next door partly concealed by the rundown properties that adjoined it .

One of my earliest memories is of a visit here aged three during the war with my mother to be immunised. It must have worked because almost seven decades later I am still here. Thank God!.

LOST WOLVERHAMPTON GETS A NOD FROM EXPRESS & STAR

I am very happy to tell all of my Blog followers that Lost Wolverhampton has received a mention from Mark Andrews in Wolverhamptons local paper, the Express & Star.

I hope that this will encourage more local people of all ages to have a look at the blog.

Anyone who has an interest in discovering more about Wolverhamptons history, please get in touch via my blog and hopefully we can all discover some new stories about the town.

STAFFORD STREET - THIS WAS MY PLAYGROUND

QUERY CORNER

Working on my blog Lost Wolverhampton is without a doubt a labour of love, and when I receive an enquiry such as the one from Christine it certainly puts the icing on the cake.





She e-mails : "Billy do you remember the lodging house on Stafford Street and Herbert Street? It was run by my gran Mrs Hayward. She had two children Rosie and Jimmy, my mom Rosie recalls a Doreen Howe is this your aunt?"

Well firstly Christine, yes Doreen Howe is my aunt. She is still alive and well and living in Burland Avenue, Claregate. As for the lodging house I remember it well and I have marked it here on a map I have drawn of Stafford Street.

(My Map of Stafford Street Circa 1950)

Herbert Street and it surrounding area has a history too large to be included here. Its goods yard included Victoria Basin, the largest railway canal interchange in the area opening in 1851, anyway that's another story.

So for today lets just have a walk along the Herbert Street I once knew and stir the memories of the ones who remember the area around Faulkland Patch in the days after the war, and provoke the imagination of those such as Christine, who may not.

(155 Stafford Street - Herbert Street Lodging House around 1950)

This is view of Herbert Street in the mid 1950's, a mishmash of 19th century Housing about to come down now along the east side of Stafford Street.


STAFFORD STREET down to GREAT WESTERN STREET

As I recall not many of the houses had electricity most still relied on Gas mantles, but the majority had the benefit of radio, with the service at that time from Rediffusion.

This large imposing Victorian residence is the Lodging House, recalled by Christine on the top left corner of Herbert Street and Stafford Street. One of the few surviving houses that were scattered around the parish of St Marys catering for itinerant Irish Catholic workers.

I remember with great affection, Mrs Hayward the lady who managed the lodging house who resided there with daughter Rosie and son Jimmy, a nicer family you couldn't wish to meet.

Herbert Street at one time had houses on both sides of the Street, but here in the 1950's only the left side has survived. Now these few houses down to where it joined Great Western Street have yards at the rear, which still back on to the old Russells Brewery.

Russells Brewery whose former main entrance was in great Western Street closed in the 1930's and the business taken over by William Butler's and production absorbed into their Springfield Brewery, in Grimstone Street.

(Great Western Street Goods Yard Wall as seen today in 2009)

At the bottom of Herbert Street on the on the east side of the adjoining Great Western Street, was an eight foot high Wall, with a sixteen foot drop on the other side. This wall ran the whole length of Great Western Street and backed on to the Great Western Railway Goods Station and Yard. This yard now belongs to Carvers Builders Merchants.

(Looking from the Goods yard wall, towards Stafford Street Circa 1950)

On the south side of Herbert Street there were many Victorian dwellings, including the Great Western Inn, that housed at least four dozen families for many years.

They were demolished around 1929, along with old Faulkland Street and its many courts The few Council Houses in the now modern Faulkland Crescent, replaced them leaving an area of waste ground in front which is now 'Faulkland Street Coach Station'.

(Harriets Shop Circa 1950)

Looking across the waste ground from Herbert Street at the demise of the remainder of Faulkland Street in the mid 1950's, we can see Harriet Edwards grocers and the adjoining property on the corner of St Mary's Crescent, the two lone survivors from the Victorian era.

Over the next fifteen years, Stafford Street will be made ready for the arrival of the Ring Road and for the Wolverhampton University redevelopment. This created several plots of waste ground scattered around the area, which Pat Collins took the opportunity to use as sites to host his annual Fairground attractions.

(Saint Joseph's Senior School Wolverhampton Football Champions 1953)

Now this one is just for you Christine, your late Uncle and my good friend Jimmy. He was twelve months younger than me and we both went to St Josephs Catholic Senior School. We continued to be the best of friends until I went to do my National Service, after which we unfortunately lost contact, a consequence I have regretted to this day.

(Jimmy Playing for Wolverhampton Boys)

Everyone I knew had nothing but admiration for Jim, he excelled at everything he did. Football was just one of the many sports he received the highest honors for. He was Captain of the School team and also Wolverhampton boys in the 1950's and was no mean swimmer at that time too.

(Herbert Street 2009)

At the top of Herbert Street what was once Attwoods Garage is now Kwikfit, and what was once the lodging house site is now the Maltings.

I hope looking at these pictures triggers a few happy memories for you Christine.

A MAN OF WOLVERHAMPTON

(Albert Adey)

Who, in Wolverhampton over the age of 60, has not heard the name of Bert Adey, a sportsman and popular licensee of a once equally known William Butler's house; the 'Pear Tree'.

(The Pear tree around 1920)

Showing some early foresight

At the end of the Great War , when making his name as a boxer Bert Adey had ambitions to become a licensee, and during training runs, he often passed the old Pear Tree, then a semi rural house of a very different character to the present large modern premises. Being a shrewd man he visualized it in years to come, and made a mental note this was the house he would like.

(Four Boxers standing together, Bert is second from left)

All his life he has been interested in the noble art of self defense. As a boxer, trainer, second, manager, or promoter. When he was eleven he fought for his brothers team Ted Adeys midgets, five years later Bert who stood just 5ft 5ins had his first professional bout his purse was 2/6.

(A signed Photograph of Bert in 1920)

Among his many contests was one of the last of the old twenty rounds bouts, which was held at the Central Baths, Wolverhampton in 1919. His opponent on this occasion was Arthur Terry, whom he knocked out in the sixteenth round.

As a schoolboy, Bert was the athletic type. In football he represented his school, Brickkiln Street.
He also represented his school in the towns schoolboy's team, once playing at Molineux Grounds.

(The Locomotive Inn)

His life as a licensee began with 'Butlers' Brewery in 1921, at the 'Locomotive' five-ways, Stafford Road. Where he also started running a school for boxers, After four years at the Locomotive he moved to the 'Yew Tree', Pool Street, where he stayed for six years.


THE ADEYS ARRIVE AT THE PEAR TREE

By this time, 1931 Wolverhampton was expanding rapidly, council houses were creeping towards the Pear Tree, and Mr Adey making a successful application for this house on the Cannock Road, realised his early ambition.

Things were not too good, this was a quiet period in the licensed trade and he quickly decided custom had to be attracted.

One of the early efforts in this direction was to purchase a donkey, which he kept in the garden.

Children being what they are, soon persuaded their parents that the Pear Tree was an enjoyable bus ride from town and a fine house for a drink and bag of crisps on a summers day. Bert made such good use of the donkey rides that two more were quickly added to the stable to satisfy the demand.

(The field at the rear of Pear Tree)

Taking advantage of his boxing experience, Mr Adey became a promoter, and staged contests in a field adjoining the Pub.

One of his most successful ventures in this direction was on August Bank Holiday Monday in 1933, when he promoted the Southern Area Feather Weight Championship between Tommy Rogers of Willenhall and Tommy Hyams of London in front of 3000 spectators, the result of which went in favour of the local man.

(The New Pear Tree in 1950)

In 1937 the new Pear Tree was built

Bert along with his wife Ada, were licensee's for 48 years, 38 of them at the Pear Tree and as well as sharing equal sporting interests they also shared the same birthday - June 6th.

On one occasion in 1956, for a dual birthday celebration they planned for something of interest for both of them. Mr Adey decided on seeing the Moore and Pompey boxing match at Harringay on June 5th and Mrs Adey wanted to go to the Derby race meeting on June 6th. So they combined the two events as birthday treats to each other.

(Bert & Ada take centre stage on this particular trip)

Bert Adey was also one time one of the Wolves oldest regulars having been a season ticket holder for over 50 years, even going behind the Iron Curtain with Wolves on one occasion.

This was not the first time bert had travelled abroad to follow his love of sport. When Randolph Turpin boxed in America he took a return ticket by air to see the fight.

(Bert & Ted pictured front row far left, visit Park Royal with other popular Wolverhampton licensees)

After notching up almost half a century in the licensed trade Bert and Ada retired from the Pear Tree.

Besides all his sporting activies he was also for many years chairman of the Wolverhampton Branch of the Licensed Victuallers Association, and will be remembered with his admirable brother Ted; two great Wulfrunians and probably two of the longest serving licensee's in the district.

I would like to dedicate this Post to my dear friend Patricia Malone, Berts daughter, who was kind enough to share these treasured memories of her father with me.

SPIRALLING WAGES! A THREAT ONCE AGAIN TO THE BEAUTIFUL GAME?

Have I heard this before?

Manchester City have taken over from Chelsea and Man Utd, and are now certainly being a 'pain in the backside' to the poorer clubs in the Premiership.

I feel this inequality will cause some clubs to overspend and possibly we could well see a number of clubs going into administration.

I saw this comment in a local paper last week and because as of yet; I hadn't mentioned The Wanderers in my posts I thought the following insight into my favourite team and the state of the game of yesteryear might interest some of you.

A quote from a leader column in the Express and Star dated August 28th 1901.

'The huge wages which first class association football players have been in receipt of, have impoverished many of our leading clubs and if not the subject been dealt with in a bold manner by the fixing of a wage limit the continued drain would have brought about the collapse of many of our best clubs.

As it was this bogey was threatening the very existence of the first division of the league and the subject was tackled just in time'

HOW TO MAKE THINGS PAY

(Cartoon from the Birmingham Argos Series in 1946)

IN 1908 MR SYDNEY HAS TO STEP IN AGAIN

On may 30th 1908 the Annual General Meeting of the Football Association was held at the Holborn Restaurant.

Lord Kinnaid being absent, Charles Crump as senior Vice-President took the chair. It was an important meeting, for Mr Clegg was to propose the abolition of any restriction on wages and bonuses. The existing regulations, he said, were being flouted.

But Mr Sidney of the Wolverhampton Wanderers, and former member of the league Management committee, opposed the suggestion. The present rule he argued worked excellently, and Wolves had no trouble in re-signing their players.

Every thing in football must not be sacrificed to money, and clubs with little money, but any amount of enthusiasm must have a chance to carry off the highest honours of the football field.

Supported by the representative of Preston North End, Mr. Sidney carried the meeting with him, and the motion was defeated.

(Just weeks after Wolves' 1908 English Cup Victory)

Sydney went on to say -

'Today we find many old established clubs in anything but a sound financial position and the directors of these combinations are now taking advantage of the rules in place related to the payment of players in the hope of being able to steer their barques away from the sands of financial disaster'

It strikes me that these words although over a hundred years old, ring true once again today.

THE MARKETS

The original market place as you probably know was in High Green, which is now Queen Square; and was long a nuisance to the inhabitants and a great trial to the health of the Butchers, green-grocers etc, who possessed the stalls.

So in 1848, the newly elected Town Council agreed that a new General Market Hall was necessary for the town. This was opened in march 1853 alongside its aspiring neighbour; the Exchange on the west front of St Peters Church, where it remained for 100 years.




If I tried to describe the feeling I had every time I entered the old retail market in Cheapside with my mother during the war, you'd think I was talking about entering the Coliseum in Rome, because it was certainly built on a similar grand scale.

On its two main fronts, the east and west ones, the entrances were enriched with many Corinthian and Doric columns. The pictures here can only give you a glimpse of this magnificent interior so full of variety and atmosphere, with a bustling spirit of life.

But every one over fifty will have their own memories of the markets I just hope my pictures will help to take you back a bit.


In 1953 the handsome structure pictured on the right celebrated its Centenary, and who would have dreamt it would be gone in just ten more short years, but Sainsburys had just recently opened the first supermarket in London and for the days of the old traditional markets, the writing was on the wall.



A learned gent said, at one time 'There are no good old days, nor bad old days, just changing times where the new benefits are always at the expense of losses in other ways'.

Take the varieties of fruit and veg available nowadays in the supermarkets, you might say, we are spoilt for choice, if you want strawberries at christmas you can have them, but this has come at a cost. And just to give you a little idea of what we are missing today this was Jim Goughs pre-war fruit stall .

I can honestly say, I think myself most fortunate to have seen the markets in their prime. full of atmosphere, and pageantry. Stalls passed down through generations of the same families, selling every variety of household needs., the likes of which I doubt we will ever see again.




Its hard to believe now, that our parents and theirs before them, trod this same ground, purchased at these same stalls from different generations of the same family. So perhaps this was the factor that made a visit to this market something more than a shopping expedition, a tour of the market in those days was indeed a happy and social occasion.